Margie's Meanderings

fficeffice" />Many thanks to the generous people who donated to Kidney Health Australia after meeting me on the road, thus making the arduous journey worthwhile. If anyone donated to the ride but does not see their name here, please contact me and I will ask Kidney Health to locate where your donation was allocated.

What kind of training is involved to prepare for a long distance ride? I am reasonably fit, having been a keen cyclist for many years, particularly in the last 4 years.

In October 2005, I cycled across the Nullarbor in 11 days.

I commenced training for this ride in January 2006 by going for a 15 - 20km training ride 5 days a week at 5am.Once a week, I would cycle 80km along the Veloway or in the Adelaide Hills. I hated hill training but it was the only way to challenge myself. I would cycle in all  temperatures and in the rain. I also power-walked 15km 3 times a week on beach sand.

I often had to get up at 5am to train in the dark because I was working at 3 jobs for 2 years to self-fund my trip and to minimise the loss of 10 months' income. That's why I hate daylight saving so much. Training in the dark is rarely fun, particularly when one skids off a bike on to an icy road (and when some nong leaves broken glass on the road ... grrrr!!!)

The mental challenge was greater than the physical challenge, especially in a solo effort for an extended time. Self-motivation and determination are needed at all times. Positive self-talk and the ability to see humour in the most frustrating circumstances kept me going through the head winds, the isolation, the distances etc. I kept reminding myself that people who suffer chronic kidney problems also often have to rely upon their positive self-talk and determination. I am more fortunate in that I can enjoy good health. There are many who do not have that point in their favour.

People have commented that now that I have reached the end of the ride, I should feel pride in my achievement. To me, this is not the end. This is the beginning - the beginning of exploring every highway in Australia and continuing to encourage people to maintain optimum kidney health.

Actual distance covered: 19, 194km

How much was raised: Approx $8000, mostly in Western Australia. Not bad for a solo effort. Some people pledged donations but didn’t deliver. Other people kindly donated to Kidney Health directly but forgot to mention the ride, but as long as kidney research benefits, I'm happy.

** For those who had trouble donating through the website, Steve did a great job putting the link on the website but Kidney Health kept changing their link every time they updated their site. The link is fine now so donations can still be made.

Actual days cycling: 209 out of 304 days on the road (average 92km/day)

Month most travelled: May (2,524km) Least travelled: Feb (1,347km)

Days of rain: 53 (not counting light showers)

How many tyres did you go through?

The rain had stopped. As I headed north on Yorke Hwy (B86) I was really excited as I was heading home. 44 weeks ago, I set off from Adelaide with some trepidation. Now, nearly 20,000 km later, I was on my way home to my family, friends and little Eddie    The road surface was as rough as hell and corrugated and the coastal views gradually disappeared after I passed the turn off to Tiddy Widdy Beach. I had a very uneventful    ride past the turn off to Price and Pt Clinton before noticing a parking bay off an unsealed turn off to Pt Arthur so I pulled in for a break. It was disgusting - full of flies and rubbish. An old mattress, even two old bicycles - and did I have to mention the wads of toilet paper! I got out of there quickly and kept cycling until I reached Federation Park and the turn off to Copper coast Hwy (B85). The road surface was so rough that even the line markers had wobbled the white line along the shoulder. I reached Highway One and struck road works. The men were surprised to see a cyclist (not too many cycle Yorke Peninsula, obviously). I then cycled the 9km to Port Wakefield. Just before the town, after I crossed a bridge, an irate truck driver passed me WAY TOO CLOSE. It was one of the Giacci Bros (SW of Western Australia). I spent the rest of the day checking out the historic parts of the town, chasing away the flies and giving an interview to the local paper.
Port Wakefield, the first town north of Adelaide to be established, is situated near the top of St Vincents Gulf (named by Matthew Flinders in 1802). It was initially called Pt Henry but later renamed after the River Wakefield. Between 1850 and 1877, copper ore was transported via this port from nearby mines at Burra and Kooringa. After the decline of the mining industry, Port Wakefield was still used in the 20th century to transport wheat and wool.
Closer to Adelaide, not all the truck drivers were as courteous as those in the outback. As I was packing my gear, Roy and Pauline Larter of Perth came over to chat. I so miss the generosity of Western Australians. I saw a lot of fatality and injury markers on both sides of the road, along with memorial markers - small comfort with traffic whizzing past. I was nearly side-swiped by a P Plater and by a truck carrying gravel, but the huge road trains were great. Just before the dual carriageway, the shoulder disappeared, and those annoying raised red reflectors appeared on the edge of the road, many of them removed by traffic after driving over them. Oh, great - now I was scared. I tried to put the thought of getting run over out of my mind while I battled the flies - they were fierce, even though I was covered in repellant. I passed the turn off to Wild Horse Plains and some ruins. Just before Dublin, there were some funny protest signs about the SA government plans to build a waste dump at Dublin, back in the days when John Olsen was Premier. The irony was that the whole area reeked of urea fertiliser. Whatever these guys were using on their farms, it sent my nostrils into a spin. I arrived in the little town of Two Wells, glad to get off the highway. I had a lovely interview with Life FM/Nova Radio that went live to air at 4:20pm and the ABC Radio conducted a pre-recorded radio interview to go to air tomorrow morning.
Two Wells is aptly named after two waterholes originally used by the Aboriginal people, then used by passing bullock drivers and by graziers. When copper was found in the town, the waterholes were deepened. In 1967, the wells were restored and form part of a heritage trail in the district.
It rained all night, continuing throughout the morning - great. Tom Menzies, producer at 5AA, phoned to arrange a live to air interview with Keith Conlon and Tony Pilkington at 7:20 but the interview lasted 2 minutes. It was still raining at 9am, but I took to the highway, clad in my fluoro wet weather gear. The traffic was bedlam. Drivers seem to speed when it's raining, instead of slowing down. I wasn't in any hurry. I didn't have to be in Adelaide until 1pm. Some of the truck drivers on both sides of the road gave me a friendly toot – they probably heard me on the ABC. I crossed the Gawler River then the turn off to Gawler (Angle Vale Road), then continued slowly towards Waterloo Corner. Had the weather been nicer, I would have cycled out to St Kilda. Just past St Kilda, a car pulled off the road and Alan and Lee from Angle Vale donated $5. I was really humbled by these lovely people. Alan had prostate cancer and leukemia and had 2 months left to live, and his wife Lee had breast cancer. And they thought that I was brave. Past Bolivar, the traffic went crazy, with a couple of rogue trucks almost running me off the road. Cowboys! What did they want me to ride on - rocky gravel? I crossed the Little Para River, passed Globe Derby Park and Dry Creek salt pans, then crossed Salisbury Hwy before climbing the small hill over the railway line. A freight train was heading to Dry Creek Station, passing beneath me. I met Tim Noonan from the ABC Morning Show at Cavan and we conducted the live to air interview amid traffic noises. Thanks to Tim for sending me a copy of the interview. I then continued to the Gepps Cross intersection, cycling up Main North Road towards the city. At Medindie, another car pulled up - Roger had heard the ABC interview. I stopped in O'Connell Street in North Adelaide. It was only noon, so I had heaps of time to kill. I bought a coffee and sat in the outdoor area. It was a vain hope for donations though. Finally, at ten to one, I cycled past Brougham Gardens into King William St. I passed the Women's and Children's Hospital (Alison and I had spent a bit of time there in the past), passed the magnificent St Peter's Cathedral and the War Memorial Gardens. As I crossed the River Torrens, I saw the children from Woodcroft forming a guard of honour at Elder Park. I was met by my daughter Alison and my dear friend Karen, Rick Berry (teacher) and the children from Woodcroft, a team from Kidney Health Australia, together with Billy Kidney, and some news teams from Channel 10 and Channel 7. A lady from The Advertiser asked me some questions (the article appeared on p. 34 the next day), then the news teams filmed me riding around. That afternoon, ABC News Radio phoned and I pre-recorded an interview with Russell Powell. He did an excellent job, even placing a link to my website on their News website. Now I could relax. I was home, after 10 months and an amazing adventure.

I had a lovely ride around the Whyalla foreshore to Lincoln Hwy, crossed the bridge, passed the Visitor Centre and OneSteel, the huge steelworks at Whyalla, and enjoyed a fairly easy ride. Road trains were courteous, as were most of the cars. A rabbit hopped across the road into the bushes, then a huge kangaroo leisurely bounded across the road and ducked behind the huge 359km water pipeline that supplies water to Whyalla from Morgan. When I reached Eyre Hwy, I was so excited. Not only was the road a lot smoother but I was making great time. Iron Knob faded from view on my left as I neared Port Augusta, known as The Crossroads of Australia - at the junction of Eyre Hwy and Stuart Hwy. I reached the outskirts of this huge town and decided to visit the Arid Lands Botanic Gardens, turning on to Stuart Hwy (the last time I was on Stuart Hwy was the middle of June!) and cycling a couple of kilometres to the gardens. Over 900 plant species and up to 100 bird and reptile species are found on this 200 hectares. I then cycled to Redcliff Lookout to view Spencer Gulf and the town. ABC Country Radio phoned and we recorded an interview, then I cycled into the town to visit Wadlata Outback Centre, a museum that highlights the history of the Flinders Ranges and the Outback. I then returned to the caravan park on the outskirts of town as the heavens opened and rain teemed, continuing through the night, together with high winds. There have been flash floods in Jamestown and towns on Yorke Peninsula, the Whyalla to Iron Knob road was closed due to flooding, and a lightning strike at Port Broughton injured a teacher at a local school. Rains have delayed me getting to Yorke Peninsula, so I guess I've been saved from a few deluges.
I crossed the bridge to Port Augusta, seeing a breathalyser on the side of the road, pulling in motorists at 5:45am! I passed the power station on my right past the town and crossed the second bridge over Bird Lake. The Ashiya University World Solar Challenge Team (from Japan) was on the side of the road, doing some minor adjustments to their cute yellow solar car. They were setting off at 8:30, once the sun was a certain height in the sky. The Flinders Ranges looked awesome in the distance, with Mt Brown stretching above the other tall peaks. At 22km, I passed the turn off to Sydney via Horrocks Pass and Broken Hill (B56). A freight train trundled along the railway track on my left and The Ghan passed an hour later. At 8:55, the Ashiya University team passed me, its car horn making strange little noises. A red solar car passing me five minutes later, and another car passed four minutes later. I crossed Mambray Creek – dry and passed a rest area on the other side. I then passed the turn off to Mt Remarkable National Park before sighting another solar car. I had a bit of a hill to climb before enjoying wonderful views of the ranges and Spencer Gulf, then I passed the turn off to Pt Germain. A few old ruins dotted the landscape on both sides of the road. The road surface was rough, especially where it was widened to include a shoulder. A final solar car (blue) passed me at 10:48, then I saw no signs of civilisation until I reached a fruit stall near the turn off to Nelshaby and Napperby. A roadhouse further south marked the turn off to Port Pirie. I had 6km to go.
On Yorke Peninsula, many sites are marked with signs, but the original sites have been removed. The roads are rough and any attempts to widen the roads give cyclists a bumpy ride. I left Port Pirie without a backward glance, crossed River Broughton at Cockey's Crossing, noticing that there was muddy water in the river, a result of the flash flooding last Tuesday. An uneventful ride, arriving at Port Broughton just after 9. No one waved, except for a nurse in her car. I cycled out towards Wallaroo, a boring ride as the farmers had the best views of the coast. I passed Wards Hill and some very rich farms. There was water on the side of the road and a few birds sang melodiously in the trees, but the scenery was dull. I passed through Alford and turned right to Wallaroo, following 23km of quiet road. Not one friendly person passed me. I reached the outskirts of Wallaroo and noticed the concrete shell of an ugly six storey monstrosity down at the new marina. I cycled into Wallaroo, underwhelmed by the lack of friendly faces. Even the guy at the caravan park was sour-faced, despite the fact that he should have been happy, as his park was completely full. There wasn't even a tent site available. The ferry from Lucky Bay wasn't sailing today as it was too windy, so I guess a few people were stuck in town. I stopped at Price's Bakery for a coffee and a pie and the proprietor was the first friendly face of the day. I then cycled the 9km to Kadina. The caravan park was very basic with few facilities. The manager promised me a donation but I'm still waiting. That night, it rained and the wind howled.
Daylight saving starts today - a complete waste of time    - so sunrise wasn't until 6:20. Australia now has 5 time zones instead of 3 (actually 6 if you include the extra time zone on the Nullarbor of Central Western Standard Time) - crazy    I heard the most beautiful bird song today then I cycled to the supermarket 2km into the town to buy a Sunday paper. I headed into the wind to Moonta. The road was patchy and a few miserable farmers passed me without a smile. I passed the site of the old railway crossing at North Yelta and three people waved - yay! I nearly fell off my bike! 2km later, I arrived in Moonta. A man was washing his green Kombi with the hose - no water restrictions in Moonta, eh? Moonta was originally a copper town founded in 1861 and many buildings have been restored to their original facades. I stopped at Moonta Coffee Lounge for a coffee and a cornish pasty and the owners were disappointed that people haven't been very friendly on Yorke. On the way out of Moonta, I passed some old miners' cottages. I had a bit of an uphill run, then rain started falling steadily and I was soaked, but the wind was still a warm westerly so I dried off quickly. I passed a little township called Weetulta-Nalyappa, but it was all closed up. Out of the town, harvesting was taking place, with bales of hay either rolled or stacked. Only one driver waved all the way to Maitland. I arrived in Maitland at 11:30 and stopped at the statue of a Clydesdale. The sign to Ardrossan was tucked in behind the pub, so I had to double back before taking a right turn towards the airport. I had to climb two steep hills out of the town. I passed the aerodrome 4km out of town. 14km out of Ardrossan, the rain started pelting down and there was nowhere to shelter. I was drenched. I passed a memorial to the pioneers of Cunningham (1873) - it's a pity that there wasn't a parking bay with a shelter here. I reached Ardrossan just before 1pm and dried out at the caravan park. The wind was now fierce (and cold) and rain was threatening again. That night, it poured and poured.

I did not travel to Locks Well (a 6km return journey to some spectacular coast) due to this crazy wind. Even the locals are calling this wind unusual. I passed the turn off to Lock and Cowell (Birdseye Hwy) and stopped at Sheringa roadhouse. I stopped next at the Lake Hamilton Eating House, built in 1851 and restored in 1972. It was closed but it offered some lovely views across the lake. I loved the range of colours in the sedge grasses and the brilliant blood red flowers and foliage. Past Mt Hope, I passed lots of farms - and quite a few hills, Mt Drummond on my left, the Marble Range in the distance, and Mt Greenly on my right with Lake Greenly a surprising blue. It was 35 degrees and the flies were loving the heat. I stopped at a rest area past Coulta and Warrow for lunch. There was a shelter but no table or seats. I passed through Wangary and a dirt track to Coffin Bay - a shorter distance but the road was rough so I stayed on the highway. I turned off the highway on to Kellidie Bay Road and reached Coffin Bay just afrer 3. The caravan park looked lovely but a little exposed to the wind so I continued to the motel where the manager very kindly only charged me $20 for the cleaning room cost only. I also sampled Coffin Bay oysters. I thought the oysters from Dampier in WA were the best, but I now stand corrected. Coffin Bay oysters are divine - and they aren't too expensive.
Back on the road, there were beautiful views across the bay of oyster beds and of boats bobbing on the water. Out of the town, the native hibiscus was flowering with their vivid lilac cups dancing in the wind. Orange callistemons waved like the Singing Bush in Three Amigos singing 'Blow The Man Down' as I passed. I reached Big Swamp and saw black swans gliding serenely on the calm water. Pushing pedals up some rolling hills, I was flagged down on one summit by a motorist. Karen was a cyclist from Peninsula Pedallers and was interested in my ride so we arranged to meet up later at the caravan park. Election posters greeted me as I reached Pt Lincoln after a lovely descent into the town. Oh great - legal graffiti! I cycled to the Pt Lincoln Times for an interview then to the Makybe Diva statue on the foreshore for a television interview with Southern Cross GTS/BKN going to air tonight throughout Eyre Peninsula all the way to Broken Hill (it was an excellent interview and well received). I met up again with Lachlan Forrest. On Tuesday night, Karen introduced me to her friend Raelene Morton who has cycled all over the world. I enjoyed a brief chat with them both. On Thursday, I had a phone interview with Lisa Lyons on ABC Eyre Peninsula for about 5 minutes - that went well. Huge thanks to Pt Lincoln Library staff who were so courteous and friendly. I was so behind with downloading my photos to my USB drive and adding captions, and the Library allowed me to use the computer for 4 hours.
Port Lincoln was named by Matthew Flinders in honour of his native English town of Lincolnshire. Boston Bay, 3 times the size of Sydney Harbour, is one of the largest safe harbours in the world. Lack of plentiful drinking water was probably the only reason why Port Lincoln did not become the capital of South Australia. Known as the fishing capital, Port Lincoln was visited first by the Parnkalla People who practised freshwater and sea fishing. The first Europeans hunted seals, then whales and a visit to Whalers Way, a rugged section of the coast south west of Port Lincoln is not to be missed. Oysters were farmed from the 1860s onwards, but other seafood has become more popular, such as crayfish, abalone, mussels, prawns, southern rock lobsters, whiting, snapper, shark and pilchards. The Southern Bluefish Tuna is a huge industry. Recreational fishing is also popular.
Woke to find I'd pulled a muscle under my left ribs yesterday - probably climbing the hill to Kirton Point in that high wind. It was a pleasant cycle through Port Lincoln and North Shields on the Lincoln Hwy. I passed the airport on my right with coastal views. As the highway headed inland, away from the coast, the flies increased. The flies are shocking here - even worse than in WA.  I passed through Pooinindie, then caught a brief view of the coast near Louth Bay, then the highway cut inland across farmlands and the flies returned in force. A few dead rabbits on the road, but at least there were no dead roos - yet. The road surface was smoother than the Flinders Hwy except where the new road surface was laid. Tumby Bay was 3km off the highway but I'm glad I cycled in there, stopping at the bakery for a coffee and a sandwich. The Bakery kindly donated $50, then people started gathering round to donate money. Tumby Bay is such a pretty place - I would have loved to have spent more time there. I cycled along the foreshore before heading back along a loop road to the highway. I crossed Salt Creek - there was actually water in the creek. Silos heralded Pt Neill, again a 3km ride to the coast. There was a mob of motorbike riders drinking merrily at the pub - at 1:30! I went to the caravan park - it was quite deserted. That afternoon, Ron Smith of KHA phoned to say that they wanted to give me some publicity as I headed home to Adelaide. I admitted to him that I could have done with some publicity along the east coast of Australia and through Darwin, but I guess there were quite a few people who truly did not believe that I could complete this trip. Huge thanks to those who had faith in me from the beginning.
I set off just after 6, my hands frozen. It would soon heat up, though, and the flies would be joining the heat. I passed a plaque commemorating the "Brattenizing system of road marking". It was hilly all the way to Arno Bay and the flies weren't the only things bothering me - I had midges flying into my face, trying to get under my goggles and bite through my shirt. Past Arno Bay, the roadside was littered with broken bottles and rubbish. The highway had been widened and the extension was rough and corrugated. Part of the extension had been resealed but most cars drove out in the middle of the road to avoid damaging their tyres - I wish that I could have done the same. I passed lots of farms. One farm had old cars and rubbish piled on it. I stopped in a rest bay to reapply sunscreen and insect repellant but the flies and midges were swarming around so I reapplied my sunscreen out on the roadside where the wind kept a few at bay. I passed an old church on Elbow Hill and a guy in a ute was doing wheelies in a nearby paddock. 9km outside Cowell, a car pulled off the road in front of me and Newton & Doreen Simpson of Milang asked me if I needed water. We chatted for a while about fundraising and I thanked them for stopping. I cycled into Cowell, a pretty little town known for its jade, and stopped for a beef roll and a coffee at the visitors centre. A grey nomad, walking with his wife, condescended to walk up to me to tell me that I was crazy. At least I wasn't mean-spirited - he didn't even give a donation, nasty, rude man. Huge thanks to people who donated, particularly the Whyalla contingent as they made me feel welcome from the moment I entered the caravan park at Cowell.
Cowell was named Franklin Harbour in 1840 by Governor Gawler and renamed Cowell in 1880. The town has one of the largest and oldest jade deposits in the world. Jade was discovered in 1965 in the Minbrie Ranges. Cowell is also known as a top fishing area, with Cowell oysters highly sought after. Whiting, snapper, crayfish, snook, flathead, tommy ruff, squid and crabs are also caught.
Strong northerly winds were forecast, together with a temperature of 38 degrees (it was actually 39 degrees in Whyalla). I hardly get any time for touring now, a shame because towns like Whyalla and Port Augusta are lovely, with so many things to see. A dour motor bike rider from the Ulysses Club on Yorke Peninsula said that Whyalla is an ugly place, but I beg to differ. The people are friendly and the town, although tinged with the same red that is in Port Hedland, has worked so hard to beautify the area. I could have stayed a week in Whyalla if I had had the time. It was already warm when I set off, at 5:30. The wind was howling and I made slow progress. I passed Salt Creek (again!), then the turn off to Lucky Bay, where the ferry takes passengers and transport across Spencer Gulf to Wallaroo. The highway headed inland, past sheep farms. Suffolk sheep were huddled together in the blustery hot wind. Three sheep (not Suffolk) had escaped through the fence and were risking death on the roadside. The flies were disgusting and midges were still trying to get under my goggles, looking for moisture. The parking bays were full of rubbish; there was even an old battery on the ground. I reapplied sunscreen 3 times and went through 7 litres of water. Iron Barron, once an abandoned mine, had now been reopened and dust was billowing from the huge mounds of red earth. While I was taking a photograph, Cameron & Jodie Thompson of Cowell pulled over. This was the only car that stopped. Up in the Kimberleys, people were pulling off the road to ask me if I needed water. Here, people couldn't care less but I thankfully had plenty of water. The road finally veered west 24km from Whyalla and I was nearly blown across the road a few times. I enjoyed a downhill run from the Middleback Ranges. I passed the turn off to Kimba and was passed by an old green caravan from Victoria, probably the oldest caravan I've seen in my whole trip. I arrived in Whyalla just as huge drops of red rain started to fall.
I was going to walk to Hummock Hill at sunrise to get some photographs but it was overcast and the sun looked like a pink fuzz ball behind the clouds, so I walked up there later. I had an interview with Whyalla News, then ABC Radio Adelaide phoned me while I was at the bank. The ABC interview went fairly well but Carol Whitelock thought my name was "Margie Staynor". She asked some interesting questions but forgot to ask how people can donate, so I had to ask the producer to get her to mention it on the air after the interview. The meeting with Whyalla’s Mayor, Jim Pollock, Jo-anne Waters and other council members was lovely and I was given a generous donation of $150 from the council. Rain started to pour after I left the council office, but I noticed one amazing thing that I have never seen in any other town during my travels. Even if a vehicle had right of way, the driver would signal for me to cross the road so that I could get out of the rain. I'm certainly not used to that level of courtesy. The rain continued for most of the night.
Whyalla is 394km NW of Adelaide on the Upper Spencer Gulf. Current population is approx 22,000. Originally visited by the Malkaripangala people, with cultural links to the Barngala people in the Lake Eyre and Lake Torrens regions, European settlement came as a result of Matthew flinders sighting the area in 1802 and Louise-Clark de Freycinet sailing by here in 1803. Edward John Eyre saw iron stone in the Middleback Ranges in 1840 and mining started in the 1890s. Whyalla was declared a town in 1914 and BHP built shipyards from 1940. The shipyards closed in 1978 after 66 ships had been constructed. Whyalla Maritime Museum features the largest landlocked ship next to the Visitors Centre. Steel production started in 1965 and now operates under OneSteel. tours of the factory are conducted three days a week. Water is supplied by the 359km Morgan to Whyalla pipeline. Whyalla Conservation Park has over 80 species of birds, 20 species of reptiles, and rare species like the dunnart, a carnivorous mouse.

The wind stepped up at 6:45, a punishing SE wind yet again. The hills weren't as steep as yesterday and the march flies only made a lethargic appearance. Lots of rubbish and broken glass scattered along the roadside - I was drawing closer to civilisation. I passed the turn off to Fowlers Bay via Coorabie, an unsealed road for 4WDs. It's a beautiful place, named by Matthew Flinders to honour his First Lieutenant Robert Fowler. Edward John Eyre also used this spot as a base camp for his expedition across Australia to Albany. It is a mecca for fishing enthusiasts and a great spot to view Southern Right Whales during May to October. At 10km, I passed a Parking Bay with a table and seats and some parked caravans. Harvesting on the nearby farms was taking place and farms increased as I neared Penong. At times, there was a buffer of woodland between the farms and the highway, and I arrived at Penong General Store, after passing the Woolshed Museum, and enjoyed a free coffee and some lunch.
I climbed the huge hill out of Penong but it was quite a pleasant climb, not as steep as it had looked from a distance. The windmills were spinning around at top speed as I passed - enjoying the wind. There was a shoulder all the way to Ceduna from Penong, and it was smooth. It had cost $1.6 million and it was the best example of good road works I had seen in a long time. There were a few more low hills to climb. At 25km, I passed a large parking bay with a table and seats, close to the road. I also passed some old school sites and a couple of large water tanks. At 35km, a sharp bend in the road to the south now the wind was behind me. I passed the turn off to Denial Bay at 57km and, at 70km, crossed the railway line into Ceduna. The quarantine station was on my left and, I met Mal from West Coast Sentinel just past the checkpoint and we yarned for over an hour about the ride. On the Wednesday, I received a phone call from Gwenda Bevilacqua (who I stayed with at City Beach). I told her how I had met Hardy on the Nullarbor. I also found out that John Hillier and Dutchy Holland (from Larrimah NT) were going to be in Ceduna that night. Dutchy bought me dinner and we had a great yarn about the trip. Abdul was in Port Augusta and heading west so he would be in Ceduna at lunch time on Thursday. I also caught up with Peter Goers' producer for an on-air interview on Thursday night.
It rained during the night and the wind howled like a mob of dingoes on a rampage - great! South westerlies, just when I don't need them. I set off into the wind and passed the main street with motels and caravan parks, their advertising signs flapping and clanging in the wind. 2km later, I turned right on to Flinders Hwy. There were a few low hills along Flinders Hwy, with Laura Bay and the blue ocean a lovely view on my right. A traveller's bus was camped behind some bushes near the turn off to Smoky Bay. The driver was hanging washing on a Hills hoist - he was well set up. Nullarbor Traveller caught up with me past Smoky Bay. The road surface was smooth but the underlying base was corrugated and rough, making the ride a little bumpy. I arrived at Streaky Bay after 3 and Don Stewart, the proprietor of Budget Motel, greeted me and offered me a room for as many days as I wished. I was amazed at his kindness and stayed on Saturday as well. Thank you, Don and Ingrid Stewart.
Streaky Bay is usually quieter than Ceduna but the people are just as friendly and the beaches are divine. The best attractions are along the coastal road to Baird Bay where one can swim with sea lions and dolphins with Alan Payne. Alan and Trish run an Eco Tour from Baird Bay. Other attractions are Cape Bauer Drive (Halley's Beach, Whistling Rocks), Westall Way Loop (High cliff, the Dreadnoughts, the Granites, Smooth Pool, Spear's Point and the Yanerbie sand dunes) and Point Labbatt/ Murphy's Haystacks. Point Labbatt is the only place on the mainland where Australian sea lions and their pups congregate and play all year round. Murphy's Haystacks are granite inselbergs over 1500 million years old, reminding one of Australia's ancient links to Antarctica. While I was in Streaky Bay, I caught up with Mary Cash. Mary and Dennis own the property on which Murphy’s Haystacks is situated.
My hands were freezing - it was so cold! The wind was going to be another header today - oh bliss. I stopped at Eyre's Waterhole, a significant historical site as Edward John Eyre relied on this water supply in 1839-40 on his trip across the Great Australian Bight to Albany. It was an important water supply point for the Wiranga people and for the Barngala and Kokatha peoples. The locals called it Cooeyana Well. Itinerants were camping here overnight, drinking beer with a camp fire smoking. At the turn off to Murphy's Haystacks, I met Dennis and Mary Cash on their way to Streaky Bay. I passed Mt Cooper Road at the wheat silos, a turn off to Poochera, 50km from Streaky Bay. Finally, I could glimpse sections of the coast near Port Kenny. The ocean was a vivid blue and so calm. Bob Weymouth and his wife from Coromandel Valley chatted to me at Port Kenny. I stopped at the roadhouse for a coffee and continued cycling, past Coodlie Old School Site (there were many schools in the 1800s in this region) where Chris and Lisa Moyle from Flagstaff Hill and their son Brodie flagged me down. I also saw a strange looking memorial with a bicycle tyre wedged into a pile of rocks. Sand dunes were coming into view on my right and a kangaroo bounded across the dunes. I climbed a few hills and passed some wildflowers. I even saw a bakery out in the middle of nowhere, next to an old church and cemetery. The highway turned right towards Elliston and a harvester was hard at work. I passed the Elliston Jetty and headed past the silos into the town to the Waterloo Bay Caravan Park. The owner's wife Maryann was donating a kidney to her brother within a month or so. I then went to visit the town murals on the buildings and marvelled at the beautiful ocean views. I also met a cyclist from Germany, Kim, who had cycled from Melbourne to Darwin (via Stuart Hwy) then from Perth. He was resting the next day to repair his bike.

Greeted by my first SA sunrise in 10 months, Strong SE winds persisted for the rest of the Nullarbor stretch. There was no shoulder but the road was refreshingly smooth. I enjoyed views of the brilliant blue ocean and the Bunda Cliffs stretching their cragged line along the coast into the misty distance. These cliffs are considered to be the longest unbroken line of cliffs in the world. There are six lookouts along the road to Nullarbor. A white car passed me then pulled up ahead and Mr Chan from Melbourne said that he had heard me on Macca while in the Kimberleys and had been looking for me ever since so that he could give a donation. I stopped briefly at the 43km from Nullarbor water tank rest area, but it was full of rubbish, ant holes and very exposed to the winds. I passed the unsealed road to Cook and three drivers of 4WDs asked me directions to the roadhouse (haven't they heard of a map?) and told me that they had seen a herd of camels about 1km along the road to Cook. I finally stopped at a truck bay and pulled my bike into some bushes across the road to set up camp. Huge ant holes were everywhere but I sprinkled talcum powder where I erected my tent. The rain came down as I settled in my tent, but it didn't last long and I was relieved to think that I could pack up a dry tent as the wind howled outside.
The SE wind was shocking and it took me two hours to get to Nullarbor Roadhouse. I had a cooked breakfast while Harry Sheldon came in to chat to me after writing down my details to forward to the Victorian Bike Club. I saw the first bike to cross the Nullarbor with a helmeted rider (1962). After a shower, I aired my tent then went to the Whale Watching Centre at the Head of the Bight (14km W and 12km S of roadhouse). There were only a few whales left in the Bight, but I would have been devastated if I hadn't seen them. I decided to take a scenic flight over the Bight. I had always wanted to do this and the flight was well worth it. Wombat burrows could be seen from the air, as could the Old Eyre Highway and the Delisser Sandhills. The Bunda Cliffs looked amazing from the air and we could see a mother whale with her calf swimming on her back. As we landed, a dingo crossed the runway and slunk into the bushes.
The Aboriginals call this place 'Oondir', meaning 'waterless'. It is a more accurate term than Nullarbor which means 'without trees'. The Nullarbor region was lifted out of the sea about 25 million years ago. A limestone base of 15 to 61 metres in height is honeycombed with one of the largest karst (caves) systems in the world. Koonalda Cave can only be viewed from the top but Murrawijinie Caves (15km north of the roadhouse) can be explored and Weebubbie Cave has an underground lake. Some interesting facts about the Eyre Hwy: it was completed as an unsealed road 14 July 1941, after men worked 6 days a week and 10 hours a day to complete it as an access road from east to west during wartime. The WA section was sealed in 1969 and the SA section was sealed in 1976. In 1912, Frances Birtles drove a 10hp Brush car from Perth to Sydney. He was also the first person to cycle the Nullarbor. I thought sections of the Eyre Hwy were rough now. I couldn't imagine how Frances Birtles did it on an unsealed road.
I left early as a healthy dingo with a shining coat rushed across the road and dived into some bushes. He had plenty of food - dead rabbits on the roadside hit by road trains meant that other rabbits were close by. I arrived at the road to the Head of the Bight and three caravans were waiting for the gate to open at 8am. Across the road was a memorial to a truckie and his dog, both killed in the area. There were some huge hills to climb past the eastern end of the Treeless Plain, and the side wind did not assist me at all. Today was Wide Load Day - the number of trucks with wide loads was large.  The march flies were gross. I arrived at Yalata just before 2pm for lunch on the old brick wall in the shade. After lunch, I continued cycling, passing the Dog Fence 7km further east. The Dog Fence was built over 60 years ago to protect sheep from dingoes. It is the longest man-made structure in the world - over 5,400km from the Great Australian Bight to the Queensland border. I passed the turn off to Yalata Community and cycled up more hills all the way to Nundroo. There were many roadside memorials along this stretch of road - no doubt  alcohol and speed played contributing factors to the road toll. I arrived at Nundroo just before 6pm and was greeted by some indigenous people hanging around the Hotel pub.

It's hard to believe that I took off exactly 9 months ago around Australia on my bicycle. I packed then patched the trailer tube, repairing the tyre split. My hands were sore and had not quite healed since riding in wet weather two weeks ago. The countryside was flat and open. I wound my watch on 45 minutes to Central Western Standard Time (not recognised by anyone but the folk who live out here). I arrived at Cocklebiddy after 4 hours of cycling. There I was greeted by curious caravan drivers. I also met up with Hardy from British Columbia (who stayed at Gwenda's place in City Beach). We exchanged email addies before he headed off to Eucla. If you get a chance, check out his blog. I found it fascinating - it's refreshing to read about our wonderful landscapes from the perspective of a visitor: http://journals.worldnomads.com/wandering_about/post/9899.aspx
Cocklebiddy means place of water with cockleshells. It was originally established as an Aboriginal mission during European settlement. Cocklebiddy Cave (11.5km) north west of the roadhouse, is worth a visit. I climbed down into the cave for a swim in 2003 and was sore for days afterwards (I wasn't as fit as I am now). Twlight Cove is 32km south and is popular for fishing and whale watching. Eyre Bird Observatory is situated 31km south of the Eyre Hwy in the 1897 Eyre Telegraph Station building. It is Australia's first bird observatory and over 250 migratory birds visit here. Courses in bird watching, astronomy, bird banding and flora and fauna are run here and dune stabilisation is also practised on Karidal Beach.
I set off early with the only tail wind for the rest of the Nullarbor stretch. The Eyre Bird Observatory turn off was along an unsealed road to my right about 17km east of the roadhouse, with 12km accessible by 2WD and 19km of it only accessible by 4WD. It is situated on the isolated Southern Ocean in the old Eyre Telegraph Station that was shut down in 1927. It is still used to record and relay weather information to Eucla (good move as weather conditions on the Nullarbor are so changeable). Dune stabilisation is practised here as the winds can denude the sand dunes so easily. Over 240 species of migratory birds are sighted here and courses in bird watching, bird banding, astronomy, flora and fauna identification are available.
The road kill was disgusting and the flies loved the stench. A helicopter flew over the Roe Plains to my right along the coast - a couple of surveyors looking for minerals. When I stopped at a parking bay up ahead, I noticed plenty of rubbish, including disposable nappies - gross! How hard is it to take your rubbish with you? Looking ahead, I noticed a cyclist heading west, struggling against the wind. His name was Yoshido and he was cycling from Sydney to Perth. I assured him that the wind would probably turn in his favour the following day and he seemed happy with that thought as he wobbled off into the gust. I continued cycling, crossing my first grid on the Nullarbor. Lots of cars and trucks passed me with a wave and, with the wind on my back, I was happy to oblige. One SA driver heading west stopped and turned around, stopping in front of me. Four children and two adults piled out. It was the triplets Mitchell, Michael and Maddison from Woodcroft Primary, with their sister Taylor and with their parents on their way to Busselton for a holiday. It was lovely to see them and to realise that I would be home in just over 4 weeks. I arrived in Madura way before lunch, and could have continued towards Mundrabilla (a further 115km) but I was happy to rest up today, still tired after the gruelling head winds over the last couple of days.
The original Madura homestead is 2.5km SW of the roadhouse. It was built in the late 1800s as a cattle and horse stud farm. Brumbies were bred here to condition them to the harsh climate, then they were sold and exported to India to the British Army. Madura is the halfway point between Adelaide and Perth. From Madura Pass, 117 metres above sea level, views of the Roe Plains can be appreciated. These plains were completely covered by sea during the Miocene Period. On the plains, western myall trees have been planted by pastoralists. These trees are an excellent hardwood and used for musical instruments and for woodturning.
It was foggy over Madura Pass and I drank in the beautiful sunrise as I pedalled into the wind towards Moodini Bluff. The new road surface was rough, but as least there was some shoulder - although it was painful to ride on it as it was rougher than the road. Today must have been road train day because I was passed by dozens of them heading in both directions. All were courteous, however, especially the Bunkers boys. I wondered if Mick was still driving for Bunkers (see my blog for the 2005 ride of the Nullarbor). I stopped at the parking bay past Moodini Bluff and noticed lots of overflowing rubbish bins and quite a few campers. I continued cycling, along the Royal Flying Doctor Service Emergency Airstrip. 11 times crossing the Nullarbor and not once did I see a RFDS plane - thankfully! I saw a few wrecked cars and a wrecked caravan though - all on straight stretches of road. Testimony to the fact that speed and cars are a bad combination, and fatigue added to the mix is even worse. I might sound like granny, but I can't see why vehicles cannot travel at a maximum of 80km/hr. I passed Mundrabilla Homestead on my left, the cluster of buildings nestled into the base of the hills. I kept noticing trees leaning from the prevailing winds - worse than those near Dongara and Geraldton. The shoe tree, with odd shoes hanging from the dead branches (14km from Mundrabilla), was a welcome break from the wind. Someone tried to start an underpants tree further ahead and a lonely black bra hanging from another tree was taking the joke just a little too far. The bottle tree (13 km from Mundrabilla) was still there with only one scarecrow (there used to be a farmer and his wife scarecrows) looking a bit travel worn beneath the tree. Just west of the roadhouse on the southern side, a 600 metre track leading to a large shelter and rainwater tanks would be a welcome sight to travellers, especially as the water at the roadhouse is not very palatable. The roadhouse is still as old as ever, with the so-called fauna park no longer operating (check out the pet cemetery with the graves of the emu, python and merino sheep) and the generator belts out more noise than an atomic bomb. The bar is interesting, with little trains and people made out of beer and rum cans (who has too much time on one's hands?) and some strange memorabilia, but after facing the strongest head winds on the planet, I was happy to stop and rest. Mundrabilla was near where Australia's biggest meteorite, weighing over 10 tonnes, crashed to Earth. No wonder people say they see UFOs on the Nullarbor - with space debris and meteorites crashing all over the place.
Two years ago to this day (4/10/05), I cycled into Border Village, travelling west across the Nullarbor. I had a guster of a head wind that. Today, I had a head wind - a NE - how cruel!! It was hot and windy and the flies loved it. I caught my last WA sunrise as I cycled into the wind. The road felt like cobblestones and I was passed by dozens of sympathetic road train drivers. There were a large number of rest areas in this section, unlike on the 90 Mile Straight section. The sight of the Eucla sand hills and the Eucla Pass ahead made a welcome change to the flat terrain of saltbush and scrub and the ocean was a shimmering and stunning blue. I pumped my way up the 2km long Eucla Pass with the flies chasing me. At the top, I read the plaque commemorating the sealing the Eyre Hwy from Norseman to the SA border on 17 October 1969. The SA section was sealed in 1976. I stopped at Eucla Roadhouse and collected some donations. Arriving at Border Village (and the SA border) 13km later, I was excited to finally see the homeward stretch before me. I had arrived in WA on 22 June (over 3 months ago) and had experienced strong winds, heat, cold, driving rain, hail, rough roads, and some of the loveliest and most generous people in Australia. I chatted to Barbara and Laurie Moffatt of Sydney. Laurie had been a cyclist in the past but lost one of his legs due to vascular disease.
Eucla had a population of 100 and was the busiest telegraph station in Australia apart from the capital cities. Eucla Telegraph Station opened in 1877 to link WA with the rest of Australia and the world, sending 11,000 messages each year. The first message was sent to Perth 8 December 1877: 'Eucla line opened. Hurrah!' The ruins of the telegraph station can be viewed by travelling towards the coast on a 4km unsealed road. Sand dunes cover most of the ruins and graffiti by stupid tourists covers the exposed sections. The dunes are a result of rabbits being introduced to the area. The rabbits ate the vegetation, causing massive erosion. Eucla also has a small museum, a bureau of meteorology, a golf course, a nursing post and a police station. Border Village is not really a village, just a roadhouse with a petrol outlet, a restaurant, bar, motel and caravan park and, sadly, pokies. Water is supplied from a bore and minerals and salts are removed by reverse osmosis in a process called desalination. The annual rainfall is 20mm per year, much of that during the summer months when cyclones whipping across the NW coast of Australia dump rain through the centre of Australia.

I had had enough of waiting for the rain to stop so I set off into a strong westerly and nearly got pushed into the middle of the road. Took off out of Esperance along Norseman Road, past the industrial estate. A climb to the Lions Park Lookout at 8km, but the view was partly obscured by road signs and bad weather. Passed lots of farms to Gibson Soak Hotel at 25km on the right. The farms continued, as did the strong cross wind, and rain fell intermittently. Road trains with names passed me leaving plenty of space, including Dicky Knee II and Menace. I stopped at Scadden (52km), once a town, now merely a memorial park with murals on the shelter and information about the once thriving farming community. A derelict building on the other side of the road looked inhabited (a ute was parked outside). My next stop was Grass Patch (77km), a town of sorts - with a tavern, an auto repairer and a war and pioneer memorial. There was a wall dedicated to Tom Starevich who had lived in the area and had received a Victoria Cross for his services during World War 2. I stopped at the tavern for lunch. Huge silos outside Salmon Gums greeted me and I wearily arrived at the Hotel and cycled on to the caravan park, but it was just a gravelled area with no shelters and a shabby looking ablution block. At the hotel, I got a twin room for $25 with a continental breakfast included. As I was the only woman staying there, I had a room and the shower to myself. Craig, the cyclist I had met before Ravensthorpe, also stayed at Salmon Gums and we caught up on some conversation with some locals in the pub. One of the cutest things was a baby roo, Emily, saved after its mother was killed on the road.
There were no towns between Salmon Gums and Norseman. More road trains passed me with friendly toots - they were great! It's a pity that some caravans couldn't follow their example. I stopped briefly at a rest area 22km long, after climbing some hills, but the rubbish there was disgusting, despite the presence of bins. I also stopped at Lake Gilmore and a road train passed with a friendly toot. The railway line followed on the right of the highway, then crossed over the highway at about 52km, continuing on the left of the highway. It was only a single track, bringing ore from Kalgoorlie to Esperance. Craig caught up with me at Bromus Dam, 32km from Norseman. He stopped for a coffee while I pushed on. He was travelling a bit faster than I was, so I knew he'd catch up to me. The turn off to Dundas Rocks was 10km ahead, but it was a 2km dirt track into the area, so I didn't feel like riding in. I arrived at Norseman to cheers from some of the locals and some road workers. Some tourists also cheered and said that they had passed me on the road.
Norseman was named after 'Hardy Norseman', a horse that supposedly pawed the ground and uncovered a nugget of gold, thus making his owner Laurie Sinclair and his partner Allsop very rich. Over 5 million ounces of gold have been discovered and extracted from here, the second richest goldfield in WA after Kalgoorlie. It is called the 'Gateway to the West' and is situated at the end of Eyre Hwy, the Nullarbor. It was established in 1894. The tin camels in the centre of town are a memorial to the early camel trains that carried freight, hence the wide streets enabling the trains to turn. Well-prepared 4WDers can take the shortest route to Perth, via Hyden, on remote outback tracks and stunning scenery, including Wave Rock. Many people like to fossick for gemstones. Recently, 3 local men set out in a 4WD without adequate provisions (including water) to look for minerals. Their car broke down (so they said) and they wandered off for 4 days, causing a massive $100,000 search and rescue effort. They should have known better - but the wallies said they are going out again. And people thought I was mad!
I said goodbye to Craig who was heading north then back to Perth. It was great to be back on the Nullarbor 2 years after my dream for this epic trip first started. The Nullarbor was a lot drier than last time I cycled it - the rain has fallen in places where it wasn't needed (such as on me!). All the road train drivers that passed me gave me a friendly wave, a toot and a wide berth. The road surface up to 15km out of Norseman was smooth, with a reasonable shoulder, but where the new road surface was laid, the road was bumpy and corrugated. Just past Jimberlana Hill a sign read, 'Cheapest fuel in town. Hell.' 10km out of Norseman I passed an overturned wrecked car. There were some steep hills from here, with occasional descents and some flat sections. At 30km, I passed a turn off to water on my left. Sadly, I had to endure 45km of road works from Heartbreak Ridge to 10km west of Fraser Range, so this slowed my speed. The flies loved keeping pace with me. At 67km, I passed an Emergency Phone. 10 Mile Rocks 24 hour camp was in disarray due to the road works, but the Fraser Range Rest Area at 82km was even worse. The WA government thinks that no-one uses their rest stops on the Nullarbor, so the rest areas are neglected and some have even been closed down. A poor excuse to save money. In Queensland, rest areas were shut down but it cost the government heaps in lost tourist trade, so the rest areas were reopened and upgraded. At 101km, I turned off to Fraser Range Station. I thought it would be quiet, but there was to be a wedding tomorrow so a hundred campers were arriving - eek!! At least I got some donations: a total of $131.70. I found a tent site, had a shower and rested for the afternoon.
Fraser Range was originally founded by John and Alexander Forrest on an expedition from Perth to Adelaide in 1870. It was first settled by the Dempster Brothers as a merino sheep station in 1872. After shearing, the wool was transported by 16 camel trains to Point Malcolm to be shipped to Adelaide. The granite range of hills is dense with salmon gums, black butts and gimlets, the largest eucalypt hardwood forest in the world. Now, damara sheep are grazed here, the meat of which is low in cholesterol. The station stretches for 160km and is 25km wide.
I left after 6am down 2km of bumpy track to the highway. The NW wind kept changing to a NE. 23km past Fraser Range, after climbing a steep hill, I looked for the clump of Sturt Desert Pea I had seen 2 years earlier but it was not there. A few steep hills and some flat sections before one lovely downhill stretch to Balladonia. I saw an adult emu scuttle his curious chick away from the roadside into the scrub - so cute. The new road surface was surprisingly smooth to ride on but the road base was highly corrugated. Even the white lines on the shoulder were wobbly! I arrived in Balladonia just before 11:30am and was greeted by surveyors and miners drinking outside of the hotel. They bought me two beers and a coffee. I stayed to watch the Grand Final. During the game, I collected donations (totalling $165.65) and had a pathetic cold shower that cost $3.50 for three minutes - what a rip off. There are new owners here too and the food is barely edible. After the game, I cycled a further 35km to a truck bay just inside the 90 Mile Straight. I was going to stay at Afghan Rocks Rest Area but it is now just a truck bay. I set up my camp on the gravel next to the concrete table and, after a hurried tea, went to bed. A truck pulled in at 11:30pm but the driver didn't know I was there until morning.
Balladonia is an indigenous word meaning 'big red rock'. The area made world headlines in 1979 when space debris from Skylab landed 40km east on Woorlba Sheep Station. At the roadhouse, there is a cultural heritage museum and - would you believe, a swimming pool! Newmans Rocks is about 1km off the highway and Cape Arid National Park and Israelite Bay can be accessed from a dirt road opposite the roadhouse.
Woke at 4:30 with the birds and was greeted by thick fog. I packed up my tent and had a quick breakfast. The truckie woke at 5 and said he was surprised to see a camper here. I cycled into the fog and a strong SE - nnooooo!!! I arrived at Woorlba Homestead rest area (15km) where there was an emergency phone, tables, a pit toilet and 3 caravans. The fog lifted at 8am, but the wind grew stronger. Trucks passed me, giving me a wave and a toot, and plenty of space. I stopped at the 49km parking bay where I met Chris and Colleen from Wauchope travelling by motorbike. I asked them why they drove out in the middle of the road and they said that the camber on the left side of the road destroyed one side of their tyres. From 50km to 124km there were few trees. The road kill was disgusting, spread all over the road. Plagues of grasshoppers all over the road flew into my face. Thousands had already been squashed by road trains and other traffic and the flies were buzzing around for the spoil. At 79km, I rescued a stumpy lizard from the road but many other stumpy lizards weren't as fortunate. At 79km, I stopped briefly at Baxter 24 hour rest area - there were bins and tables there but also hordes of hornets, so I kept moving. I stopped at Domblegabby rest area where there was a water tank and a shelter. One of the two tables had been removed. 30km from Caiguna, I met Kylie from Nullarbor Traveller with some travellers. I stopped at Caiguna Blowhole for a brief photo (5km from roadhouse) then stopped at the eastern end of the 90 Mile Straight sign for a photo, just as the sun was going down.
Caiguna is at the eastern end of the 90 Mile Straight on the Nullarbor. This stretch is the longest straight stretch of road in Australia (146.6km). If you follow a 4WD track to the coast, you can visit the Baxter Memorial and the Baxter Cliffs. Baxter was Edward John Eyre's overseer and was tragically shot 29 April 1941 (but not by Eyre!).